As regular readers of this blog know, I love sparking wine. And what’s more, I really love sparklers that are good values. That’s why I drink Gloria Ferrer, Piper Sonoma, and plenty of Cava. When I came across Kirkland Sonoma Brut yesterday at Costco, I paused a moment. And knowing how good Kirkland Champagne is (below), I decided to try it. I wasn’t disappointed.
Kirkland Champagne
Kirkland Sonoma Brut
Kirkland Sonoma Brut, $11. Produced and bottled by Cypress Ranch Cellars, Sonoma California. From their website:
“Cypress Hill Winery is a small boutique winery dedicated to making the highest quality wines in limited quantities”. This ideal seems kind of at odds with making a wine for one of America’s largest retail chains, but in this economy- like it was in prohibition- just about anything a winery needs to do to survive is understandable. From the label:
“Kirkland Signature Brut Sparkling Wine comes from the cool-climate area of Sonoma County, California. This is an ideal growing region for the classic varietals of sparkling wine. The maritime breezes in the area lengthen the growing season to give the grapes more time to develop flavor, depth and body. The hand-picked fruit is gently pressed, the fermentation is carried out in the traditional Champagne method, with 18 months on the lees. The flavors of Asian pear, ripe apples and hints of mouth-watering citrus, along with overtones of toasted biscuit and roasted almonds make this a fresh and lively sparkler”.
If you don’t know what they mean by traditional Champagne method, or 18 months on the lees, see our discussion of Champagne here. The classic varietals (by which they mean those varietals used by the Champenoise) are Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier. Nothing tells us how much of which they used, or in what proportion, although Cypress Ranch Cellars makes a Chardonnay but not a Pinot Noir, so we can assume it’s mostly Chardonnay. We can also assume it’s not all Chardonnay because otherwise they would label it as -bonus points for those out there shouting the answer at their computer screens!- a blanc de blanc, or a sparkler made from all Chardonnay. But enough about the technical aspects- how’s it taste?
In the glass, it has a rich copper/ caramel hue. As you’d expect from an inexpensive sparkler, there are lots of big bubbles that produce a quickly-dissipating mousse. The nose is fruity and noticeably sweet, with an almost earthy tone. On the palate it’s simple, and pleasant. I got pear and a kind of apple skin flavor that vanished pretty quickly. It has a strong yeasty note but it’s much more bread dough than a Champagne-style brioche note. It is about on par with Gloria Ferrar Brut, but a little less acidic and a little bit cheaper (Gloria Ferrar is usually $13-15), so that makes is a very strong value. It is also equal or superior to many Cavas at this price point, so it’s definitely worth a shot if you like these wines.
However, this wine is just about ideal for someone who doesn’t drink a lot of sparklers, is put off by their often searing acidity, or wants to move up beyond Korbel and Ballatore. After all, this Kirkland Brut would make a great mimosa! Cheers!
Posted by dallaswinefan 
